July 17, 2020. Photographer Mario Sorrenti and Document's fashion director Sarah Richardson collaborate on this fashion portfolio for Document's Spring/Summer 2020 issue. Model Vilma Sjöberg at Next Models. SpringCasting Henry Thomas at ARQA. Printing by ArcLtd.
All people in this magazine cover:
Every blade of grass at the vast Celine-branded stadium was styled to perfection — and so were the models who rounded the track’s eight red lanes dressed in the spring collection.
Seeing Hedi Slimane’s fashions parading in the fresh air and sunlight — instead of a dark runway venue fronted with some flashing, morphing contraption — made them seem friendlier, more wholesome. The look was cool, but less achingly so.
He had transported his gamine Parisians to Monaco, and this was not in service of a theme, but solely for the spectacular venue — the Stade Louis II — decked out with Celine flags and emblems, including one dusted large on the runway.
Since arriving at the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned house in 2018, Slimane ultimately settled into a groove of bourgeois chic that has proved influential, and there were still vestiges of that conservative style: pussy-bow shirts and blouses, blazers in natty checks, and little tweed jackets.
But his Celine girl now listens to rap and hip-hop, according to the press notes, so she’s fine to throw a camo vest, hoodie or flashy silk bomber jacket over her tea dress; show an expanse of stomach via a cropped sweatshirt or bra top with branded underwear elastic, and plop a trucker cap or bucket hat over her wash-and-go hair.
Overall the collection felt more casual, sporty and Brandy Melville easy, with plenty of upmarket sweatpants, pert running shorts, mom jeans with just the right rips, windbreakers and varsity jackets. Granny sweaters and grunge flannels mingled with prim, drop-waisted dresses and hiking boots — hip librarians off to Coachella.
There was nothing nonchalant about the handbags, except in their approachable, small-ish proportions. They still thrummed with bourgeois aspirations and luxury, including a quilted style dubbed the Sulky, a wink to Celine’s equestrian roots. All the shoes were flat, including plenty of sneakers, but no one broke a sweat.
Dior has us worshipping at the altar of earth tones
Presented to a socially distanced audience in a tent in the Jardin des Tuileries, her collection was—rest assured—a far cry from the cashmere track tops and cocktail earrings of “Zoom dressing,” but a study in how one might adapt the tailored silhouette of Christian Dior (hardly your kick-back-and-relax type of kit) to a comfy new wardrobe sensibility. “This is very far from the Dior look, because Dior was a couture house. The idea of construction was really stiff,” Chiuri acknowledged. “The most important issue for me was to realize the new Dior silhouette: the jacket with the shirt and the pants. I think that is what really represents the feeling of the moment. I cross my fingers.”
Tapping filmmaker Alina Marazzi and artist Lucia Marcucci, Maria Grazia Chiuri's latest presentation is a celebration of comfort, introspection, and feminine cultural power
Reflection has been a buzzword this year. For Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri, this season, the focus was on creating a cohesive, engaging narrative for her moments of reflection. Wearing her influences on her sleeve—from Italian filmmakers to 19th-century painters—she created a small world that acted as a window into her psyche.
Dior’s Spring/Summer 2021 collection featured many floral prints, leather vests, flowy dresses, and sheer fabrics. The styles weren’t confined to one occasion: there was everything from reworked men’s dress shirts and braided belts, to more casual wear, like the kimono style jackets.
The last womenswear collection designed by Sylvia Venturini Fendi before she hands the reins to Kim Jones as artistic director. United by family, legacy and pasta invitations, the SS 21 show was a stripped back, calming
Rebirth, renewal, reconstruction. A muted palette blends tan, beige, soft white, black and smudges of subtle powdery pastels. Forever minimalist, sleek and sophisticated – clothing that makes you feel your best. SS 21 renaissance women.
Moschino
30-inch model marionettes walked the runway for Jeremy Scott’s SS 21 show for Moschino. The elaborate puppet show saw reproportioned miniature sized garments in couture-esque style. Pure fantasy.
An occasion for garden picnics on a European summer Sunday afternoon. Pair your mini skirts with rubber boots, billowing shirts with synced corset waists and off the shoulder dresses with classic tank tops. Remember layering is key.
Under the sea. Donatella created a Versacepolis world for SS 21. Taking it back to the 90s with repurposed seashell motifs from the Spring 92 collection when the supers
The most anticipated show of the season. Mother Miuccia and now co-creative director Raf Simons new partnership is an industry delight. For SS 2, exploring the notion of uniform was key.z Clothing is pared-back, refined and focused. Re-nylon clutch coats, shell tops, satin shift dresses, straight pants and fleece suiting. You can watch Miuccia and Raf’s post show conversation here.
Francesco Risso created a Marnifesto for SS 21. Looks were sent to friends and family all over the world to model and live stream in a digital showcase. From LA, Philadelphia Detroit, New York, London, Milan, Paris, Dakar, Shanghai and Tokyo – it was a celebration of unity and diversity; we are all in this together. Archival pieces were deconstructed and recreated in new ways, presented in IRL everyday scenarios. The Marni connection.
Forever the romantic. Pierpaolo Piccioli said it with flowers for SS 21. Signature ethereal evening gowns, caftans, cape dresses, short suits, oversized shirting, crochet, lace, sheer masculine blouses and touches of sparkle. Fluid, free, simplified and forever dreamy. P.S the rockstuds are back and better than ever with a new edge.
Inspired by the words of Walt Witman, “And if the body were not the soul, what is the soul?” For SS 21 is a story that is sensual and hypnotic - surreal silhouettes, revealing skin and enigmatic femininity. The radiant beautyof Romy Schneider in La Piscine, 1969 was a secondary visually seductive reference. Magnetic and iconic.
A focus of craft, colour, artistry and renewal. A tree-lined SS 21 runway revealed a sporty aesthetic with sneakers, bomber jackets, utilitarian details, sleek shorts, wide leg trousers, soft knitwear and a refreshing palette. Relaxed, easygoing style.
Easy shapes, vibrant colour, contrast, decorative accessories and washed, worn out textures of suede and canvas.
Image credits: courtesy Fendi; courtesy Max Mara, @moschino and @moschino; @philosophyofficial, @philosophyofficial, @philosophyofficial and @philosophyofficial; @versace and @preciousleexoxo; courtesy Prada; @marni; courtesy Valentino; courtesy Sportmax; courtesy Boss; courtesy Tod's.
Not many runway shows are pulse-pounding. Versace’s are unfailingly so with their blaring music, leggy supermodels, fierce fashions and famous faces in the crowd — or even walking the show. Hello, remember J.Lo in that dress!
“We will have to do without a front row of VIPs. Something’s gotta give, right?” Donatella Versace said in an e-mail interview ahead of a livestream of her coed spring show, with Versace employees, all of whom tested negative for COVID-19, making up the sparse audience.
Versace went for an undersea theme out of a yearning for nature, escape and fantasy. “Right after the lockdown was lifted, we all saw that the world was actually recovering very fast by the lack of human presence,” she said. “The air was cleaner, the sky seemed of a deeper blue. I want it to stay like this.”
The collection was solid and very on-brand in its use of vivid Miami colors, bold prints and unabashed sexiness. Versace paired boxy pinstriped jackets with HotPants, poured models thin and curvy into tube skirts — and she never met a scuba top that went past the ribcage.
While some looks teetered into camp territory — the bedazzled clam-shell bra, for example — Versace clearly had fun with the theme, scattering rows of printed shells on an Eighties shell suit (LOL!) and adding squid-like ruffles to the sleeves and hems of narrow plissé dresses, and bigger, undulating flounces to miniskirts and two-tier ball skirts.
