Moschino RTW Fall 2020
Marie Antoinette was Jeremy Scott's muse this season.
Jeremy Scott teased the punchline to his Marie Antoinette-themed Moschino show with his invitation — attached to elaborately iced, nonedible baked goods — and then delivered it with finale looks that were tiered and frosted: “Let them wear cake!”
Groan. The visual jokes seemed a bit more obvious this time, the main one being pannier skirts chopped into perky minis. Scott stretched white T-shirts, hoodies, Perfecto leathers and jeans jackets paved in gold bullion embroideries into stiff little dresses that emerged from a pink palace and stalked a runway of antique mirrors.
You had to laugh when you realized his hoods were long enough to accommodate powdered pouf hairstyles taller than the French queen’s — or Marge Simpson’s. Clutches in the form of baguettes and macarons had wit, and the show came to life when Joan Smalls and Gigi Hadid started vamping it up.
The rest of the clothes you can almost conjure without being there: frock coats and breeches in patchworks of rich damasks that seem ripped off the walls of Versailles. Japanese anime characters were incorporated into toile de Jouy and needlepoint prints — something unexpected. The rest was pure sugar rush and empty fashion calories. Bow Wow Wow’s “I Want Candy” was the finale song.
Backstage, Scott drew parallels between the French Revolution and social upheaval today, and made the point that Marie Antoinette endures as an icon “without having Instagram, photos, videos or cinema of her herself.…So there’s something fascinating because I love iconic women,” he said, adding, “A bit of decadence and joy is the best form of rebellion you can have.” You can see it all on Instagram — and meme your heart out.
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